Derives inspiration from all things of Earth, Sea & Surf, Vector Voyage Resident Instructor
B IG W A V E – I was surfing in Puerto Rico last winter and the waves were seven to 10 feet high. They were the best waves I surfed in a while” As I was waiting for the next set to come in, all of a sudden this huge wave which looked like a mountain of water was coming my way. I felt a crazy rush, but nobody was paddling for it and thought to myself, Oh my Gosh!!” and I just started paddling for this wave without fear, without thought.
Next thing I know, I am right about to drop into this wave. I feel the force as I am being pulled by a jet sky and as I looked down, I felt like I was two stories high.
All of a sudden, I caught it and I landed the drop to my surprise I am riding the most amazing and beautiful wave I have ever ridden. Everything in the world stopped; nothing mattered but just riding this giant wave.
As I am riding this wave, I made a sharp cut back, and I lost balance and fell. As I was falling, I knew I was in big trouble. I had to hold my breath because the wave was so powerful and the reef was underneath. Falling felt like forever, and at the instant I hit the water, it felt like hitting it at 100 miles per hour. It knocked the breath out of me. As I was being destroyed by this wave, I thought to myself that I was going to die. All I wanted was to breathe, so I started swimming and swimming until, finally I caught a piece of air. I felt so happy to be alive! When I finally recuperated I was ready for the next ride.
No matter how a wave feels, you always want to do it again; to catch another wave because every wave has a different feeling and you can never experience it until you do it again. So that’s why I am a surfer.
- My Skills - Surfer, Water Sports, Guide
- Costa Rica Connection - Knows secret surfing hideaways
- Origin - Florida & Colombia